Developmental Stages of a Puppy
1-14 days      Not responsive to humans Sleeps eats need stimulation

15-21 days    Eyes open Begins to walk (worming) needs mom and stimulation

22-35 days    Begins to eat on their own, bark and play

6-7 wks         Strong dominant/subordinate relationships and developing.
                  Start puppy shots, leash train and simple commands

8 wks             Often termed the "fear period"  Puppy should not be frightened or
                   unnecessarily stressed during this week

9-12 wks        Bonds to humans.  Learning sit/stay.  Needs confidence instilled.
                   Needs exposure

12-16 wks      Learns by association  "avoidance period"
                   needs  low key socialization and exposure

16-24 wks       Fully developed mentally, needs experience will
                    establish   dominance.  form a negative or positive attitude
                    towards training .  Praise lavishly for correct behavior
6-8 mo             Basic Training and Consistent discipline.  Continue socialization.

8-12 mo           Reassurance necessary.  "puppy bloom stage"  teething end and
                    puberty begins.  start adult food

12-18 mo         Structured training, love most Shelties out of coat.

WARNING: NEVER GIVE A SHELTIE A PUPPY SHOT WITH “LEPTO” Or the brand name
HeartGuard for Heart Worm preventatives. NEVER GIVE YOUR DOGS RIMIDYLE. Side effect
of Rimidyle
www.srdogs.com/Pages/rimadylfr.html


Make sure each time your pup has his/her shots or boosters that it is a 5 in one shot . Not a
7 in one shot. A sheltie can die or become very ill when given Lepto.


If you are going to your vets for any shots you can give your dog or puppy Children Benydral about 1/4 teas for a
pup and ½ tea for adult. This can help ward off any allergy your dog may have to the upcoming meds.

NEVER TAKE YOUR PUP OUT IN PUBLIC UNTIL HE/SHE HAS HAD ALL OF HIS/HER PUPPY SHOTS.

When taking your dog to the vet, leave your pup in the car until the vet is ready for him/her. Do not sit in the vets
waiting room with your new pup where there are many sick dogs coming in and out. And, especially DO NOT let
your pup walk on the vets floor. Always carry your pet into the office and place the pup on the top of the vet table.
Vet’s office’s usually clean the table after each visit. The morning of your pups first vets visit: Collect a stool
sample of your pup from that morning, place in a plastic bag and take with you on your appointment so the vet can
get for worms, coccidia, etc. This will get your pup off to the best start.

ALL puppies are born with worms and the possibility to develop coccidia. The stress to a puppy in movement to a
new home will sometimes bring on coccidia. Although, most pups make the transaction with no problem. Please
make sure your vet checks the stool sample for this on the first puppy visit from the stool sample. It is nothing to
be alarmed about and when treated as soon as possible will go away in about 9 or 10 days with medication. It
usually occurs when a puppy is stressed from a flight at a young age or sometimes can happen when just moved
away from it’s litter mates to a new home and new surroundings.


TIPS FOR TRAINING YOUR NEW PUP

Do the next 5 items at least 5 times during a 5 day period. The week you get your pup.

Give him/her 5 new surfaces to stand and walk on.

Take him/her into 5 different places in your home.

Let him/her meet 5 new people some of which are children.

Let him/her hear 5 different sounds. All loud, can be cars, tractors, radio music, BANG POTS AND PANS
TOGETHER.  

Let him sleep in 5 different places. A car, a garage, a bedroom, a crate, etc.

Teach You Puppy to Think

Like all children, puppies need to work through challenges: they need to figure things out.

When we teach our pups nothing, they grow up to be seemingly brainless dogs. Over-protective actions on our
part can diminish a pups budding confidence and encourage uncertainty and anxiety instead.

Puppies are better than that. They are bright and responsive if we nurture their intelligence. They can work
through
challenges, and we much give them those opportunities.

Be fair to your interactions with the puppy

Set and maintain a regular routine with the puppy (i.e.:: mealtimes, potty times, walks, etc). Routine provides
puppies a sense of security. However, puppies also need stimulus to help them build confidence in new situations.

Provide a crate for your puppy as a safe haven.  It is a den, NOT a punishment.

If your new puppy isn’t drinking much water, add a tad of chicken broth to it’s water.

Have a set area outside for elimination. Encourage the pup to eliminate right before a play session or training the
pup for a walk (the play session or walks becomes a reward).

If the puppy wears a collar, it is much easier to leash train.

Don’t let your puppy make mistakes....prevent them from happening. This is much more than just house breaking  .
Make sure he/she has toys available at all times.
Don’t ever let your puppy do anything that you would not want your adult to do.

Don’t do anything for your pup that you can teach him/her to do for itself.

Don’t train: Teach instead

When teaching use a small treat to reinforce every command every time.

Discourage biting as early as possible. RULE ONE .....NO BITING EVER

Let your puppies be puppies.

In the beginning, God created the Heaven and the Earth, Man, a bit later, created the fable that “the dog, when he
understands, always wants to please” Training your new pup is a matter of letting him/her know what you want.

Before starting to train you new pup have a plan. Decide what you want him/her to do. If you don’t know he/she
wont know either. Whether you are training for obedience, showing, rally or just wanting a well mannered house
pet have the
correct equipment prior to starting. For basic training you will need:

Collar: For a young pup one that is small with a buckle so you can adjust it to fit where it wont go over the pups
head if he/she pulls on it. By placing a bell on it you will know where he/she is when moving about the house. When
older a very fine choke collar can be used.

The lounge: Its length of fifteen feet or more will enable you, if you are slow, speedily to debunk some bad habit
pups learn early on. When the pup is very young you can tie a string to the collar for a lounge and let him drag it
around. The string can be burnt with a match on the end so when he/she drags it around it doesn’t start coming
undone. Leave it straight without knots so it doesn’t hang up on furniture. This way when you want the pup to
come and he doesn’t you can go to the end of the string and pull him/her gently to you calling his/her name.. I like
the string better than a leash because the string is so light the pups don’t know they have it on and they can’t
figure out how you are able to control them. Therefore, when older they don’t know for sure if you can get them or
not. Never chase your dog unless you want him/her to think it is a game...Just remember you’ll never win and it is
very dangerous to have a dog that does not come when it is called and runs the other way.

The leash: Is usually 6' or less and used to walking the dog on the street or show ring.

Grooming Table: If you are going to show your pup this will be used for grooming and baiting.

THE NEW PUP AND HOUSEBREAKING: Because he eats two or more meals a day then a grown dog, the puppy
requires more frequent opportunities to relieve himself. Try to work out a regular schedule of feeding that will
permit you o take the pup out about the time he generally needs an airing, and you’ll be taking advantage of the
pup’s instincts for cleanliness. .

The second consideration in housebreaking of a puppy is the practice of close confinement when he’s out of your
sight. Keep him in view when he’s in the house, so you’ll see the signs of his needs and be able to take him
outdoors. The puppy collar with the dragging string is one of the best assurances that feeling guilty if he starts to
commit an error, he wont be able to run from you and complicate matters in more ways than one. The line also
serves to remind him of his responsibilities. When out of sight confine him in a dog crate or small area so that he
would be soiling the area in which he is held. Dogs as a rule don’t like to be in close proximity to the mess they
make. I find that using the crate the first week of training housebreaks faster than not.When you take him to do
his duty, take him to the same spot each time. Puppy’s tend to need potty when they: Wake
up after playing before bedtime after each meal. If you take him during these times and he does his thing always
praise him and tell him how great he is. I have found that telling the dog to go potty during his business is a great
way to train your dog to go on command. This comes in very handy when stopping at rest areas during travel and
when I really need them to go quickly for whatever reason. Remember all puppies are going to have an accident or
two while learning.

Don’t punish him for it unless you have made every effort to take the pup out every hour or so and you are sure he
knows what you want him to do. One thing I do is train my pups to stay off the carpets until they are old enough
not to have
accidents.

BEGIN TRAINING A SHOW DOG IMMEDIATELY: All Shelties need socialization. A show pup will need more. He
should be handled frequently from an early age. Turn him on each side, on his back, and touch him all over. Talk
and play with him often. Games like tug of war and fetch and hide and seek are important confidence builders.
End any play session with the pup winning.

Shelties are very smart and when you start teaching them you will find they will look forward to new challenges
and learn them faster with each new introduction. Cue words are a good way to excite your pup. By always using
the same cue
word for baiting the pup knows what to expect and gets pumped. Other cue words can be used for walking, going
to the show, etc. Although not necessary, I use baby talk to my dogs and then they know to get excited.

Show pups should be put on a grooming table at an early age. If the pup is a little fearful at first just stand there
and give a treat or some toys until he calms down. Always end the session with the pup enjoying himself and
never make the lessons too long. Keep it short and fun.

When asking several long time breeders what they would do different between raising a pet and show pup, I got a
number of different answers. It came down to two groups. One that raises their dogs outdoors and the others that
raise in the house. It was clear that just because some breeders raise outdoors doesn’t mean they love their dogs
any less than those that raised indoors. Both groups agreed that handling, socializing, good nutrition, starting
early training and a lot of hard work and luck were key to success for both the pet as well as a show pup.

KNOWING YOUR SHELTIES DEVELOPMENTAL STAGES is a must for the new puppy owner. If you have not read the
developmental stages of a puppy in “Sheltie Talk” please do. It will give you the basic needs of your pup from one
week to 2 years old.   The Illustrated Guide to Sheltie Grooming by Barb Ross is the best book for learning how to
groom.  

New situations will help your pup be well rounded. Making each experience fun and not seem like work is a key to
success. Once your pup has puppy shots you can begin taking him out and about. I always grab one dog when I
leave the house. It makes them feel special that they are the only one to get to go and they all look forward to it.
Walking on different types of surfaces and hearing different noise is a must.

When Shelties reach puberty, they many have a temperament crisis. A stable dog will sail through this time, but a
formerly outgoing pup will lose confidence. It may or may not regain that confidence as it matures. Don’t put him
away during this time but try without stress to keep him socialized as much as possible and try rebuilding the
convenience level once again